Itinerary:
Day 1: Flight to Seattle, Mt. Ellinor, Murhut Falls, Sequim, Port Angeles
Day 2: Hurricane Ridge
Day 3: Whale watching tour, Marymere Falls, Lake Crescent, Sol Duc Falls, Rialto Beach, Forks
Day 4: Hoh Rainforest, Second Beach, Lake Quinault
Day 5: Mt. Rainier
Day 6: Mt. Rainier
Day 7: Mt. Rainier
Day 8: North Cascades National Park
Day 9: North Cascades National Park
Day 10: Flight home
Day 1: Flight to Seattle, Mt. Ellinor, Murhut Falls, Sequim, Port Angeles
If you are not from the Pacific Northwest, the airport that you will most likely be flying into is Seattle-Tacoma International Airport (Sea-Tac for short). From the airport, take the shuttle bus (located outside of baggage claim) to pick up your rental car. This experience was extremely easy and efficient. You are now on your way to Olympic National Park! Depending on when your flight arrives in Seattle, I will give you a few options that you can add to your drive up to Port Angeles.
If your flight arrives in the morning:
Stop 1: Hike Mt. Ellinor via the Upper Trailhead
Drive time: 2.5 hours
This is a 4 mile out and back strenuous hike. On a clear day you will be rewarded with views looking onto Lake Cushman, Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Rainier and Mt Adams to the south. I couldn’t think of a better way to stretch your legs and get oriented with the beauty of the Pacific Northwest!
Stop 2: Murhut Falls Trailhead
Drive time: 1 hour and 16 minutes
This will be a quick and easy 1.4 mile out and back to Murhut Falls. This trail is definitely more about the destination (the falls) than the trail itself.
Stop 3: Sequim
Drive time: 1 hour and 10 minutes
Enroute to Port Angeles, I recommend stopping in the trendy little city of Sequim (pronounced “squim”), WA about 25 minutes from your final destination. It’s a great place to stretch your legs, check out a street market or some unique shops and restaurants. Fun fact: Sequim receives only 16 inches of rain per year due to its location within the rain shadow of the nearby Olympic Mountains. Yes, a place in rainy Washington, near some of the wettest rainforests in the US, is a place that gets roughly as much rain as Los Angeles, CA. Anyway, drop by and check it out! There’s some notable trails you can find here if you’ve got another day around these parts.
Stop 4: Port Angeles
Drive time: 24 minutes
After finishing your drive to Port Angeles, you’ll be gazing across the Salish Sea at the Canadian province of British Columbia! This was an ideal first leg journey, putting us in a picturesque and convenient location a short ride from Olympic National Park. Once we arrived at our hotel, we opted to walk along the town’s waterfront and quiet city streets. You’ll have panoramic views of mountain landscapes and rugged islands everywhere you look. We didn’t realize it at the time, but we would be ascending up Mt. Angeles the next day and gazing down on the town from a very new vantage point. There is a pier (with plenty of nearby parking and restrooms) and an elevated platform you can climb up, giving you a bird’s eye view of your surroundings. We watched as some teenage boys were daring each other to jump about 15 feet from the pier’s edge to the water below. Being a responsible adult, I took it upon myself to watch and see if they’d go through with it. Sure enough, each took a turn plunging into the roughly 60 degree water. Pier pressure, anyone?….yikes snuck a dad joke in, I’ll show myself out.
Port Angeles from the Pier
Additionally, there is a well-maintained bike trail spanning several miles along the city’s waterfront. Port Angeles is a great place to visit a grocery store to get some hiking staples. Safeway was a short walk from our hotel and we gathered a few days worth of highly helpful supplies and food. We snapped up a quick dinner and retired to the room, sorting out our gear and plan for the next day.
Hotel: Port Angeles Inn – Great location, View (from some rooms), easy parking, refrigerator, microwave, coffee in the room. No AC
Day 2: Hurricane Ridge
Hike: Klahane Ridge via Hurricane Ridge
First time entering the gates of Olympic National Park. If you are inclined to visit more than one national park while you are in the PNW or have any future national parks in your crosshairs, now is a great time to invest $80 in an annual parks pass. Information here. Then, you can collect one per year and show them off like Pokemon cards to your nature lover friends…win win!
Wake up early and drive to one of the most well known regions in Olympic National Park…Hurricane Ridge. Once you get to the visitors center, you will understand why this location is so popular. From the parking lot, you will be greeted with sweeping views of the alp-like mountain range. Today, we were also greeted by a family of deer grazing in the grass right by the parking lot.
Our hike started from the visitor’s center at Hurricane Ridge and saw us make a plan on the fly to do the Klahane Ridge trail. Klahane Ridge via Hurricane Ridge is 7.2 miles round trip. As with many trails, there are several places to access it, but starting from the visitor’s center offered secure parking and a more manageable hike. The trail was relatively steady for the first few miles, but culminated with many switchbacks on loose ground for the final push to the top.
Between working out the remaining jet lag and getting acclimated to the altitude this trail presented one of our bigger challenges, but we were rewarded for our efforts with views of alpine slopes, meadows and wildflowers along the way. Hiking poles will be of great help as the latter half of the trail has a lot of loose ground (“slippy” as they say in Pittsburgh…or so I’m told). Once to the top, you’ll appreciate views across the Strait of Juan de Fuca (part of the Salish Sea) to Vancouver Island with the snow-capped Mt. Baker [more on Mt. Baker] in the distance to the East and a deep sense of satisfaction as you look down on the city of Port Angeles where the day started.
When you get back to town, you can strut around and point to the peak you climbed earlier today as you hobble around with your burning leg muscles! Take the time to stretch and cool down…do as I say not as I do.
After trudging our way back to the car, we were ready to have a well deserved rest back in the city. You know you’re early in the trip when you get the quivering quadriceps dance going on. We started our hike by 9:30am and found ample parking and relative peace on the trails. We came back early afternoon to find a very full parking lot drawing weekend crowds and a line out the park entrance that would make even the most patient minivan dad crack. Be kind to yourself and arrive early, it’s no big secret and you’ll thank me later.
We made our way back into Port Angeles to grab dinner at one of their many restaurants. While home to around 20,000 people, it is a quiet town and you’ll find most establishments close in the early-ish evening. Make your dinner plans sooner than later and take time to stretch your legs before bed. That crisp air is just magic to us, it’s so refreshing to go outside and not sweat through a T-shirt before getting to your mailbox. Sarah made a savvy, last minute decision to book a whale watching tour for us the next day. We’d get the whale watching in early then head back into Olympic National Park for more exploring.
Day 3: Whale watching tour, Marymere Falls, Lake Crescent, Sol Duc Falls, Rialto Beach, Forks
This morning we checked out of our hotel, pack up our car and walk ten minutes down to the dock at Island Adventures Whale Watching. We simply drove around the corner and found a free street parking spot before making the short jaunt down to the dock. There is plenty of paid parking near the whale watching departure point, but it is on the pricier end. They have a very nice little souvenir shop with clean bathrooms and offer 25% off items purchased in the gift shop. We got ourselves an Olympic National Park magnet…. our knick knack keepsakes of choice when traveling. The whole operation was very efficient, staff was accommodating and knowledgeable and the atmosphere was wonderfully laid back and fun. If you are going to spend four hours on a boat, this is a perfect scenario to do so…and you’re guaranteed to see whales, wildlife and priceless views.
Our curator/naturalist, Lisa, was friendly and very engaging. These folks really love this ecosystem and are passionate about its preservation! We learned history and got a rundown for every geographic feature we were seeing from the boat deck. You can get a good glimpse of Victoria British Columbia at one point during the ride and a number of islands with absolutely fascinating histories. You’ll also get more stunning views of Mount Baker, which really doesn’t seem real as it looms far in the distance. We ventured out about an hour before beginning to see our first set of whale friends. These fellas/gals were Minke whales (“stinky Minkes” lovingly called so because they’re a bit shy and elusive). We watched as they zipped through bait balls that floated to the surface and scattered birds in every direction when they coasted through for a bite to eat. It was a perfect day, calm water and warm sun on a comfortable boat. There were two restrooms and a bar/concession area conveniently located below deck. If you want a hot dog and beer to supplement your whale watching excursion here’s your opportunity. Check out the chart of marine life on the wall, I bet you didn’t know there were over 70 toothed whale species…unless you did, in which case disregard my hastily researched google factoid.
We reached our farthest point and had to begin our return trip. There was a sense that people wanted more whales, because who doesn’t!? Overheard a kid say to his mom, “I hope we see some real whales,” tisk tisk so disrespectful to our new Minke whale brethren! About a third of the way back, we received a cryptic message over the speaker that there was “another species” of whale mulling around. Soon we would see multiple Humpback whales emerging, spouting their blowholes high in the air and dipping back down exposing their flukes (not tails as we learned). It’s hard to say how big they were, I’d estimate at least 15 feet long. These mammals can grow up to 60 feet long, which is truly massive. They are able to individually identify them by the amount and pattern of white coloring on their flukes, which we found interesting. On this day, three different Humpbacks made an appearance. We followed a pair of these sea creatures and shot a number of great videos as we steered back towards Port Angeles. This was the perfect ending to a relaxing morning.
Back on dry land with a ton of new photos, we prepared for another foray into Olympic National Park.
Stop 2: Lake Crescent/ Marymere Falls
Drive Time: 30 minutes
First, we made the drive to Lake Crescent, the second deepest lake in Washington state (about 20 miles west of Port Angeles). It is exceptionally clear and surrounded by a number of trailheads and waterfalls.
We took a relatively short and flat trail to Marymere Falls from Lake Crescent. After taking in some unobstructed views of the falls, we made our way back to the car to head towards Sol Duc Falls.
Stop 3: Sol Duc Falls
Drive time: 50 minutes
We made a few stops along the Sol Duc River to get close to the water and snap some close ups. We came to a bit of a conundrum as the day wore on, make it the last leg to Sol Duc Falls trail for a quick peek or ensure that we made it to Rialto Beach on the Pacific for sunset?
Stop 4: Rialto Beach (for Sunset)
Drive time: 1 hour and 10 minutes
This evening would be our best shot at catching a sunset so we opted to make a beeline for the beach. Our next hotel for the night was in Forks, WA (about 90 minutes away). Rialto Beach was an additional 20 minutes from there, so we decided to book it for the coast first. The last little stretch to the water’s edge takes you through unspoiled forests on country roads and becomes eerily quiet as the sun gets low. It reminded me so much of a painting that hung in my grandparent’s house when I was a kid. A weird sense of deja vu I didn’t see coming….ever get that? Anyway you’ll come to the end of the road and probably see plenty of cars already haphazardly parallel parked (especially if you get there 20 minutes before actual sunset like us!). There is a parking lot, but we didn’t even bother to try to find a spot, opting to grab an open slab of muddy ground and hoof it to the beach. We’ll worry about our compact car getting out of the muck when we get back (we managed)! We came to a wall of driftwood between us and the water and fought our way over.. I’m not kidding, there were tangled trees everywhere that we climbed over like an obstacle course, but it just added to the anticipation. Once you were past the trees, you got that first glimpse of the vivid orange sun and felt that jolt of brisk sea breeze. It left us speechless.
We narrowly made it to one of the most spectacular sunsets I have ever witnessed. I collected several smooth beach rocks like a nerd and Sarah captured video of a lone harbor seal swimming in the turbulent surf without a care in the world. These are the moments that make the driving, the airport madness, the packing and planning all worth it. This was a seemingly insignificant moment of the trip on paper (we weren’t married to the idea of rushing there initially) that turned into so much more. We sat in inspired appreciation and snapped some of our favorite photos from this very spot.
Stop 5: Forks, WA
Drive time: 25 minutes
At nightfall we made our way to the hotel in the town of Forks, WA. This trip was starting to pick up steam and we were just happy to be present with much left to see.
Hotel: Pacific Inn Motel
Day 4: Hoh Rainforest, Second Beach, Lake Quinault
Today would be our last day within Olympic National Park so we were ready to really make it count.
Stop 1: Hoh Rainforest
Drive time: 45 minutes
Our first stop was Hoh Rainforest, about a 45 minutes drive from our hotel and one of the largest temperate rainforests within the U.S. The best way to get a feel for the vegetation and climate around the rainforest is to walk two nearby short trails, the Hall of Mosses and Spruce Nature Trail. Together, these trails cover a bit over two and half miles and make for very serene exploring.
I would definitely recommend slapping on a quick layer of bug spray before taking the trail. Otherwise, it’s a very comfortable place to walk and let your mind wander under the thick vegetation.
Stop 2: Second Beach
Drive time: 1 hour
Back in the car and due south for more coastline, we worked our way to Second Beach around midday. This was the perfect picnic spot and opportunity to get creative with some of our leftovers. Salsa….on a Cheez-it….uhhh sure. We tread our way across a few rocks and natural obstacles and found a tree trunk to plop down on and spread out a bit (recommend good, closed-toe footwear, at least until you get down the incline to beach level and get around some of the rocks and tree branches). There are two bathrooms here and you should be able to find parking without much fuss, but know you may have to get creative with a parallel parking job a bit away from the actual lot, which fills up fast. We sat and listened to the ocean roar and scanned along the rock formations as waves smashed into them. Naturally, we noted all of the well-behaved off leash dogs sitting quietly next to their owners and thought of our rowdy canine twosome back home. It was a beautiful sunny day and a stop we were pleased to make. Highly recommend to break up the driving monotony and get reinvigorated by that wonderful dose of salt water.
Stop 3: Lake Quinault
Drive time: 1 hour and 45 minutes
Now, we would continue back inland toward Lake Quinault. Lodging became more scarce the further we ventured from the larger towns around Olympic National Park, but I was able to find this relic of a hotel built in the 1800’s that really transports you to a different era. Walk the halls and scan some of the old pictures on the walls showcasing milestones from the early 1900’s. Lake Quinault Lodge is steeped in history and makes you feel like a person on holiday many many moons ago. If everyone here were dressed up like characters from the Great Gatsby, they wouldn’t look far out of place. There is a map provided at the desk, that allows you to take a self-guided tour of the lodge and learn the history of its construction and early days.
Additionally, you can pick up a trail map to wander further from the lodge. Here’s a bit of a rundown on some nearby hikes and points of interest. There is essentially little to no cell service here, a limited amount of wifi provided for free (once it’s used up, you can pay for more…but why? You’re here to disconnect), no TV’s, and no gratuitous amount of modern distractions. The rooms are updated and nice, the hotel is gorgeous and the grounds are postcard worthy. This was a truly unique experience.
Right across the street begins an easy to mildly moderate trail (Falls Creek and Quinault Loop) to stroll around and help you shake out some cobwebs and get back to the whole reason you’re here….the natural wonders. Grab a map provided from the front desk and follow accordingly. Signage was good and we walked along through a bog and came back to cross over a quaint little bridge near the falls. We were parked right up front, so once we finished our loop, we hopped into the car for a driving tour around Lake Quinault.
If you want to go the distance, it’s roughly 30 miles or about two hours. The road is gravel in some places, but offers plenty of places to park and inch down towards the water. We were tired, but glad we took this opportunity. Our maps from the hotel pointed out other attractions along the route, including the world’s largest Sitka Spruce tree, Merriman Falls and Bunch Falls. Additionally, there are picnic areas and canyons to enjoy. It’s a good chance to work up an appetite before grabbing dinner back at the lodge…ideally with a nice lake view!
After completing the loop, we got cleaned up and went downstairs to the little cafe, got some simple burgers and ate literally fixated on the view from the deck. You can’t take a bad picture of Lake Quinault, from any angle it just photographs well. We watched the sunset over the mountains and walked down to the dock to sit at dusk. We put Sarah’s new iPhone to the test here and I’d say it delivered. Retiring to the room, we cracked the window (no AC) and let some of the nice cool air flow in before drifting to sleep. This is a special place, FDR has dined here, so by the transitive property (probably using that wrong), we were now part of major American history…right? Getting a room here during high season can be a bit competitive, so book ahead as far as possible. There is a nearby general store and a gas station within walking distance, so modern amenities are always within reach. Enjoy your stay and take a much needed break from the insanity of our modern world!
Hotel: Lake Quinault Lodge
Day 5: Mt. Rainier National Park
Hikes: Trail of Shadows, Twin Firs Trail Loop
Snowcapped Mt. Rainier is the highest point in the Cascade Mountain Range and an active volcano, soaring to over 14,400 feet. The park itself is very large and will require a fair amount of driving, particularly if you are wanting to traverse the sprawling preserve in its entirety. As we had three nights and wanted to spend our time on the trails as opposed to the road, we decided to focus our sightseeing and hiking on the southern portion of the park. We made the Nisqually Lodge in Ashford, WA our convenient home-base around seven miles from the Nisqually Entrance to the park….easy enough to remember, right?
Full speed ahead through the Nisqually Entrance! This was a Tuesday and the park was pretty quiet. We took the opportunity to hit the open road and find some nice overlooks and views. Our first stop was Inspiration Point, with a large pullout offering a great view of Mt. Rainier. We took the time to have a quick picnic lunch before getting back on the winding roads.
It’s a convenient place to loop back around through the town of Paradise, which hosts a visitor’s center (Henry M. Jackson Memorial Visitor Center) and access to a number of trailheads. As it neared closer to check-in time, we cobbled together an impromptu itinerary of small hikes to check off before heading back to the hotel. The giant map you get at the ranger’s station will make more and more sense as you start to put some miles on around the park.
Our first hike, the Trail of Shadows, departed across the road from the Longmire Museum and Wilderness Information Center – another well-marked stop with accommodations and ample parking along the main drag of Paradise Road. This is a very easy 0.75 mile loop trail just across the road from the National Park Inn. It was a great little opportunity to get moving and start to appreciate some of the natural surroundings we’d encounter over the next few days. You’ll learn a bit about how glaciers shaped a great deal of this park. It’s also a jumping off point for a few of the larger hikes in this area, we would actually use it to hit our trailhead for Rampart Ridge in two days’ time. After we completed the loop, we hopped back in the car and continued heading back towards our hotel in Ashford.
We stopped by the compact Twin Firs Loop Trail offering nice soft ground and a peaceful hike. Peaceful until we stumbled upon two park employees hacking up some fallen tree trunks on the trail with chainsaws that is. It’s interesting to appreciate all of the work that needs to be done to maintain these trails, I think many assume they just stay nice and primped on their own. The trailhead is located on a little pullout just off the road, if you blink you’ll miss it. It’s nice to break up some of the more intense hikes with little, auto pilot hikes like these. This was our most “sedentary” day and we were happy to have at least one! With a bit of comfort established within the park, we headed back towards the hotel to check in, do laundry and have dinner.
There are a few general stores located along National Park Highway (State Route 706) to stock up on some necessities, albeit at an inflated price. Plan your gas fill ups accordingly (you can fill up in Ashford) as you’ll probably be doing more driving and be farther away from a gas station than you think after exploring the park. There are also a number of restaurants located along the highway. We got takeout from Wildberry Restaurant and were reasonably pleased with their offerings as we ate there two nights in a row. I have to mention that the owner is a Nepalese Sherpa who has summited Mount Everest over ten times…no big deal! Well, not just ascended, but held the speed record for a period of time. You can read about this iron man here, quite an interesting journey! If you go inside, you can see some of the equipment he wore to the top on display and do try the delicious chicken thali.
Hotel: Nisqually Lodge
Day 6: Mt. Rainier National Park
Hikes: Bench and Snow Lakes, The Lakes Trail Loop via Reflection Lake, Kautz Creek Trail
When entering the park, ask for some hiking/trail maps. Here’s the printout for Paradise Area Trails we received from park rangers. They are simple single sheets of paper, but offer a nice summary of a few major trails, including estimated hiking time and skill level. On the back you’ll find a simplified map, which never hurts to have as you venture down the oftentimes ambiguous signage on many national park trails (Mt. Rainier NP was pretty good with signage compared to others we’ve come across). I recommend supplementing this with the AllTrails app (pro edition if you want to pay the extra $15/year-really it’s a steal for the added security it provides). This was our first trip fully utilizing AllTrails Pro, which allowed us to download the map ahead of time and have GPS guidance even as we were in “no service” areas. You’ll go about as confidently as you ever have onto a trail and can measure your mile time and distance and plan for upcoming switchbacks, trail deviations and challenges. After a few (mis)adventures in our early hiking days years back, I can’t tell you how much this has improved our enjoyment and peace of mind as we tackle longer trails with less than clear signage!
Alright, back to the grind! Today we would be focusing on the Paradise Area Trails. First up, Bench and Snow Lakes (info here). This was an outstanding way to start the day as it was crisp and calm and just the right temperature and challenge to get our legs going.
The pay off at the end to get up close to the lakes was fantastic and winds you through meadows full of wildflowers. A few tips: apply bug spray and sunscreen, bring layers-comfortable hiking wear takes some trial and error, especially when there’s still snow on the ground in July, but the temperature says 75-80F with low humidity, and (optional) don’t be afraid to get a goofy boonie hat like me to really look the part!
After completing this two and half mile hike, we were only a short trip down the road from our second hike, The Lakes Trail Loop, via Reflection Lake.
View of Reflection Lake from the trail.
Reflection Lake is on a large pullout and is a nice place to sit and gaze. The parking lot does fill up as the day goes on, so it’s ideal to start this hike by late morning if possible. We were in Mt. Rainier NP during midweek and had the luxury of moving at our own pace, but I’ve gathered that you need to be really early if you want to hike the popular trails in any amount of peace on the weekends, much less find parking! This goes for pretty much any national park, but you’ll probably be so tired after the day that you’ll (unintentionally) do the whole early to bed early to rise thing.
Okay, on to this lovely hike! Refer to the Paradise Area Trails printout for this one as the Lake Trails Loop seems to go by a few different names depending on where you look. It overlaps with other loop trails and can become a slight bit confusing as there are so many places you could begin. You might also see parts of it referred to as the Skyline Trail, which it does intersect on occasion and, if you’re looking at google maps, it is labeled as the “Mazama Ridge Trail” through a large part of it. This is one of those times when AllTrails Pro is your best friend! The hiking sheet is spot on in suggesting that you start and park at Reflection Lakes (especially if you’re coming from Bench and Snow Lakes), hike up to Paradise (you’ll be able to stop at the visitor’s center to use restrooms and take a break about halfway through as you go right by it), then return on a decline back to your car on the last leg. I think this route maximizes efficiency and enjoyment.
We faced A LOT of snow on this trail, sometimes having little more than dirty footprints in the white stuff to follow (insert plug for AllTrails again….disclaimer: I am not paid by them, just in love with their product!) as the thawing process is still in the works. This made for some amusing moments and provided a bit of respite on our knees, but challenged our balance a bit. The trail was a lot of fun and conjured up memories of playing king of the hill as a fourth grader on an Ohio snowdrift.
You’ll be able to snap some excellent photos of Reflection Lake at the end and will capture endless intriguing scenery throughout.
Job done and feeling good about ourselves, we had one more hike in us! After another quick car picnic, we headed back towards the entrance to roll along the Kautz Creek Trail.
This trail is considered a Longmire/Cougar Rock Area Trail, which your ranger will have given you a copy of at the gate. You can find that sheet here. Tomorrow, we would really focus on the Longmire Area trails, but we’d do a quick runout at Kautz Creek for a decent cooldown. This trail was calm and tree lined, allowing for speed walking over mostly soft, flat ground (if you’re so inclined). It was roughly two miles out and back, pretty unremarkable really. If we had more time, we’d have considered pushing on to one of the more strenuous hikes it merges with, but being our third hike of the day and nearing dinner, we were satisfied with our step count from our efforts.
Hiking is the ideal exercise to allow yourself the wiggle room to overindulge a bit on meals (note: I’m not a dietician). That’s a big pro in my book! We made sure to stretch plenty and hydrate as in our advancing age, an injury on the trail was not welcome. However, our legs were feeling pretty good so far and we were ready to keep clipping along the next day for a few more noteworthy hikes. Give yourself a pat on the back for your accomplishments!
Hotel: Nisqually Lodge
Day 7: Mt. Rainier National Park
Hikes: Comet Falls/Van Trump Trail, Rampart Ridge Trail
Today we’d head back to the Longmire/Cougar Rock Area Trails. We kept our plans fluid and revised our desired hikes the night before and I believe it was a good modification. Initially we were going to do the Carter Falls/Madcap Falls out and back hike, but switched our focus to the Comet Falls/Van Trump Trail. We did this, in part, based on some recent AllTrails reviews and pictures that caught our attention. Per the printout, it’s listed as “strenuous,” but fortunately the strenuous portion seems to begin after you’ve completed your leg of the journey (heading towards Mildred Point and the Van Trump Trail-note you will stop short of these if following this itinerary). The hike out and back runs you roughly four miles. It’s a steady climb in most places, pretty rocky with plenty of footholds and roots and ends at the absolutely raging Comet Falls-it’s a pretty emphatic finale.You can also incorporate Christine Falls into this hike, just a short walk away from the parking area.
We loved this hike! We could not find a great deal of info on just the stretch that we wanted to do, so went in a bit tentative (at least I did anyway). You’ll definitely know when to turn back, as Comet Falls is unmistakable. Get within 50 feet of it and you’ll be peppered with water splashing off the rocky river bed. Just down the river, nearly everything surrounding the waterway was covered in (slowly thawing) snow. We read that many people were walking on and across this stretch to get closer to the falls and view from a different angle. Don’t do that! While still thick, the snow is rapidly thawing and is far from a safe place to stand. Instead, stay on the wet, slippery rocks near the falls haha.
You can get really close to them, just be mindful of your footing. We took some video at the bottom and backed right up the moment we were getting pelted with water. Note: we’re safe hikers and pretty risk averse so the prospect of falling through snow or breaking our necks on rocks lacks appeal to us! I had one close call slip/fall to the ground (luckily caught myself no worse for wear) on loose dirt early on at Olympic National Park and it reminded me not to die before the trip was over.
Now, we would wind our way back towards the entrance a bit and head for the Rampart Ridge Trail. Rampart Ridge is a 4.6 mile loop that branches off from the Trail of Shadows just across the street from the Longmire Museum and large parking lot. There are bathrooms conveniently located here and parking was never an issue. It’s hard to pass up a loop trail, they are just so convenient and hard to find. Rampart Ridge offered a healthy challenge as it starts with about a mile of switchbacks as you ascend to the ridge. I consider it a good conditioning hike and was glad to be doing it after days of acclimating and building strength. It offered plenty of leg burning terrain to trod over, but was short on views. Most of what you can see, even at lookout areas, is very obstructed by tall trees. I was a bit disappointed with this hike, in truth, but I would list it as a nice hike to push yourself and go for a speed run if you’re competitive. I truly regret no hikes as it’s a passion of ours and we learn something about our abilities with each new venture out. We did it in just under two and a half hours, beating the estimated time provided by the printout. Pretty decent right? (pats self on back)
The days go by fast when you’re on a tight itinerary and trying to conserve just enough energy for a few hefty drives and yet to be attempted hikes. We wrapped up our day around dinnertime and picked up a seemingly too large pizza. By this time in the trip, we were very efficient and utilizing our leftovers well and would eat cold pizza out of a plastic sandwich bag for lunch the next day….we used to be college kids way back when.
Tonight would be our last night in Ashford, just outside of sprawling Mount Rainier National Park. The park is ruggedly beautiful and has so much to offer. It is far more seasonal than we anticipated with snow still blanketing many heavily traveled trails. This turned out to be a good time to visit in order to have greater hiking options and safer passage through many areas. One could spend a week here fully exploring the entirety of the park, dabbling in more hikes, overlooks and hidden gems. We were pleased to have had three nights here and settle in for a bit.
Tomorrow, we were off to North Cascades National Park and were taking the wonderful new memories with us.
Hotel: Nisqually Lodge
Day 8: North Cascades National Park
Hike: Blue Lakes Trail
North Cascades doesn’t get the love it should, it’s a bit of an outlier among Washington’s national parks and has only been designated one since 1968. It receives a mere 30,000 visitors a year and is free to enter. The park has its own unique topography, beauty and underappreciated history. There are a few select trails adjacent to the park that may charge a trailhead fee of $5/day, but they are few and far between and can be covered by a simple day pass obtained at the visitor’s center or by displaying your annual pass in a handy mirror placard.
If you only have a few days to kill, this would be a lovely two and a half hour getaway from Seattle to take in some natural wonders at a much slower pace than say, Mount Rainier National Park, with its two million(!) yearly visitors. Full disclosure: do all the national parks if you’re able to, but North Cascades can slide nicely into a short window for a long weekend out of the city or impromptu roadtrip. Okay, now for your arrival!
State Route 20, aka North Cascades Highway, goes through North Cascades NP. Stunning scenery throughout the drive.
We entered the park from the south and followed along the Skagit River before arriving at the visitor’s center. We obtained hiking and park maps and knew we wanted to get a hike in yet this afternoon. First, we walked a few paved areas to take in some views of Gorge Lake (incorporate this short trail from the parking lot if you’re feeling froggy), with it’s unique hue of glacial water – caused by glaciers grinding rocks into powder and mixing together.
Gorge Trail .3 mile loop
Next, we drove a bit farther into the park to see one of the biggest attractions, Diablo Lake. It’s a stunning sight, with similarly brilliant colored water. There is a Diablo Lake Trail running along the northern shore, which we were unable to fit in, but I’m certain it’s a treat. They also run a ferry across the lake on a varying schedule, so plan ahead if you’re interested. Sarah had preselected the Blue Lake Trail as our target for the afternoon and this was also one of the recommendations from a ranger when asked about must see trails.
Blue Lake Trail is a 4.4 mile out and back trail climbing through subalpine forests and meadows to a deep, blue mountain lake. As it states on the trail map, it does require a Northwest Forest Pass ($5/day as mentioned earlier OR use your annual pass), but you got in here for free and I can’t think of a more worthy way to spend a fiver. There is a decent sized parking lot with a restroom on site, but you might find parking a bit competitive depending on when you arrive.We started our hike in the early afternoon and ended up parking just off the shoulder of the main drag. The trail was steady, had some nice climbs and wound through equally beautiful forests, airy, wildflower-surrounded clearings and offered a number of nice views…and that’s just the parts before you behold the absolutely lovely lake!
We gladly sat by the lake for a half hour snapping photos and finding a place to spread out right by the shoreline.This trail had the perfect pay off to exertion ratio (not sure that’s an official measure, but you get the idea). By this point in our trip, we figured out that you could wear shorts when it was 70F and not freeze to death. We were coming to the end of our list of hikes and closing in on the tail of our trip, so we savored these moments even more.
By the time we returned to our vehicle, the parking lot had thinned out significantly and we hopped in bound for our hotel in the wild-west reminiscent town of Winthrop, WA. Sarah conveniently had us stay east of North Cascades on the first night so we didn’t have to crisscross the park and our post hike driving was minimal.
The main drag of Winthrop definitely warrants a walk, it’s pretty happening with breweries, bakeries and little historical bits. Our hotel was very comfortable and boutiquey and right above a Mexican restaurant, so that was a convenient dinner for tired legs. We watched a young deer munch on grass from our hotel stairs a few yards away, then proceed to go and eat shrubs next to our car. Nature seems to find you if you don’t go out and seek it yourself!
Day 9: North Cascades National Park
Hike: Cascade Pass Trail
Our last full day in Washington…sigh. Today we would traverse back across the park to hike the Cascade Pass Trail. Now, this drive was in the two hour range to get back across the park, but it would see us hike an outstanding trail and put us closer to our hotel for the evening. As a result, the journey back to Seattle the next day was a breeze. This was the other highly touted trail by both rangers and hiking enthusiasts alike and I agree with them. The trail is rated as hard, but I honestly see it as more moderate. It’s roughly seven miles in length and a pretty steady incline gain throughout. The first chunk of it contains most of that gain and its (dare I say?) gentle switchbacks are quite manageable. You’ll have many unobstructed views of peaks and potentially see and or hear falling ice/snow in the form of mini avalanches across the way.
Here is something I wish we knew, not that it would have changed our mind. The last leg of the drive to the trailhead is on an…ummm…challenging gravel road. On the way there it was about 40 minutes (felt like 3 hours for the driver) on the loose gravel with overgrown “shoulders” butting up to steep dropoffs. It’s definitely not the time to sip a coffee or play with the radio! The road eventually tapers to a very tight thoroughfare (really one way in one way out) flanked by cars parked on both sides as you near the start of the popular trail. I recommend getting here early and taking the drive nice and slow. Many people who are more seasoned mountain folk will be zipping through, just find a place to pull over a bit and let them tear the road up as you go ten and two on your steering wheel 🙂 There are two bathrooms at the trailhead and you might need them after that drive. You know it’s worth it when that many people go off the beaten path to partake in a hike, so don’t fret! We took plenty of time to stretch and prepare our supplies and were ready to soak up our very last hike…bittersweet!
We actually completed this hike in around four hours, much quicker than I anticipated. The last piece of the hike before you get to the top is perhaps the most unique, especially when snow is in play. It opens to (I guess what you might call) a ridgeline along the side of the cliff covered in loose rock (and snow) and allows for one person to pass at a time. Take this piece slow as the footing is pretty unforgiving and unpredictable. It’s been a long time since I’ve seen snow, but if memory serves me, traction on it can be an added challenge. This stretch offered some really great pictures and saw people on the trail really cooperate with each other for safe passage. You’re only a stone’s throw away at this point so press on.
At the end you ascend to an area where you can sit and gaze far down into the pass and see the mountain range go on well beyond the horizon. What could make this better…you said mountain goats, right? We watched as a family of mountain goats hopped around mere feet from the trail and munched on roughage without a care in the world. I like this….a lot! Made us miss our dogs more….they like eating grass and garbage too, but are slightly less likely to break your hip with a headbutt.
As we got a later start than we anticipated, our trip back down the trail saw us encounter relatively few new hikers. After re-traversing the aforementioned snowy, rocky fun part, it was a steady decline, reasonably gentle on legs that saw a week of great hiking. We made sure to do a cool down stretch and jumped in our car much less angsty about the drive back. The gravel road was no match for our new found, mountain goat inspired courage and breezed right by. After weaving our way back to a nice, paved two-lane road (relief!), we made our way to the hotel in Concrete, WA. We had a comfortable stay and reluctantly began to pack up for the return trip to Florida.
Day 10: Flight home
We enjoyed our last night being able to sleep with the windows open and got an early start back towards the airport. The drive was under two hours and being a Sunday, was free of traffic. Time to deposit our dirty, off road weary vehicle at the rental car return and head to the terminal.
This was a remarkable trip for us. my first trip to the Pacific Northwest and a little reminiscent of my native Ireland ; an exceptional respite from the steamy Florida summer. We could not have been more pleased with how this turned out. We were able to strike a nice balance between time on the road, time on the trail and time to unwind and recharge. I hope that you are also able to experience Washington’s natural beauty and one of a kind national parks.
It is my belief that when the world is spinning seemingly out of control, you can always find peace and clarity in the simplicity of nature.
Thank you for following my journey, and I wish you safe and rewarding travels!
#Washington #NorthCascades #Roadtrip #10days #OlympicNationalPark #Mountains #MtRainier #NationalParks #hiking #PacificNorthwest
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