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Writer's pictureSarah Carey

Ultimate Ireland Road and Hiking Trip in 12 days

Updated: Mar 8, 2022


The scenery, people, culture, and history…what’s not to love about Ireland? If you follow this itinerary, you will see the main sights as well as some hidden gems. Do you want to visit picturesque towns, hike in the mountains, gaze at magnificent cliffs, learn about sorrowful Irish history and experience ‘craic’ first hand? If so, then this itinerary is for you!


Itinerary:


I have always loved the descent into Dublin International Airport. Looking out the window, you are greeted with the quintessential Irish sight– field upon field of lush and vibrant green. I can feel the excitement and anticipation rising inside of me as we get closer to touching down. You see, Ireland is more than a vacation for me, it is a homecoming. I was born in Ireland and moved to the ‘States’ when I was very young. I would travel to Ireland many summers to visit my father and other family members in a town outside of Dublin.

This trip was also a special opportunity for my friend, Brent, to share this experience with his family. Ireland was the ideal setting to fulfill bucket lists, trace lineage, passionately explore and unite two families across the pond. This trip had unique significance to everyone and came together in such a perfect way. Brent’s mother, Lisa, and Aunt Jackie were eager to join us in the Emerald Isle for this Irish reunion/quest. Since we were flying from different places within the United States, we would be meeting them at the Airport once we landed.


Day 1:

Arrive in Dublin, Newgrange Tombs, Trim Castle

After arriving at Dublin airport and collecting your luggage, take the shuttle to pick up your rental car. The rental car company gave us the option to upgrade to an SUV, but we opted for a “saloon” aka sedan because we knew that many roads in Ireland are extremely narrow. We would need that extra “wiggle room” driving on the opposite side.

Our mantra: “Stay left, stay left, stay left!”

Now that the long flight is behind you…

WELCOME TO IRELAND, the Emerald Isle, home of Saint Patrick and Guinness.

If you are arriving in the morning, you can drive directly from DUB to Newgrange Tombs. Newgrange Tombs are Neolithic burial tombs that date back prior to the pyramids of Giza in Egypt and Stonehenge. Yes, you read that right! These tombs were constructed BEFORE the Pyramids in Giza and Stonehenge.

I believe starting with one of the most prehistoric sites in Ireland was a good way to begin this Irish adventure. Click on the link to learn more about Newgrange.

Prior to your visit refer to the following for hours of operation and prices.

The entrance to the passage tomb and ancient temple at Newgrange.

After exploring Newgrange Tombs, you should head to Trim, Co. Meath to visit the well-restored Trim Castle. If you are a fan of the movie Braveheart, you might recognize this place. Make sure to take the guided tour, it’s well worth it! Trim is a small-ish town with many shops, restaurants, pubs, and hotels that would make a great overnight stop.

Trim Castle in Co. Meath.

Hotel: Trim Castle Hotel



 

Day 2:

Trim, Rock of Cashel, Knockmealdown Mountain, Cahir, Killarney

Today you will wake up early and head Southwest for the beautiful town of Killarney in Co. Kerry. This is one of my favorite places in Ireland!

Stop #1- (Trim to Rock of Cashel drive time: 2 hours) On the way, stop at the Rock of Cashel, in Co Tipperary. The structure, grounds and views are spectacular.

When leaving the Rock of Cashel, turn right to head down the hill to Hore Abbey which are ruins of a Cistercian monastery. This is also a great place to get that perfect photo of the Rock of Cashel.


Rock of Cashel



Pro Tip: Arrive early to beat the crowds. We arrived around 10am and easily found a spot in the paid parking lot.

Stop #2- (Rock of Cashel to Knockmealdown Mountain drive time: 40 minutes) If you are visiting Ireland in early June, please do yourself a favor and drive up to Knockmealdown Mountain to see the Rhododendron bloom. This was not on the original itinerary, but this experience ended up being one of the highlights of the trip.

Rhododendron bloom on Knockmealdown Mountain.


Stop #3- (Knockmealdown Mountain to Cahir drive time: 30 minutes) Before getting back on the road to Killarney, eat lunch in the picturesque town of Cahir. If you have time, you could take a stroll through the forest to visit a lovely Swiss Cottage. The walk is about a mile each way.


Swiss Cottage

Stop 4: (Cahir to Killarney drive time: 1 hour and 40 minutes) Killarney! Check into your hotel, and spend the rest of the evening exploring the town or take a stroll through Killarney National Park.

Killarney National Park

 

Day 3:

Hike the Gap of Dunloe

(Drive time: 10 minutes with the tour)

Hiking the Gap of Dunloe was something that I had never done, so this was one activity that I was most looking forward to. Upon waking up this day, we heard the torrential downpour of rain hitting the roof, but the show must go on! We got dressed in our most waterproof gear (which is a must if you are visiting Ireland), ate breakfast, and caught the bus to the beginning of the trek.

Hiking the Gap of Dunloe:

Once we started walking, no one cared that we were getting rained on…it was all part of the “Irish experience.”

The Gap of Dunloe

The hike itself wasn’t difficult. We strolled past pastures of sheep and babbling brooks. Cars and horse-drawn carriages are allowed on the road, so you will have to be on the lookout for horse droppings and the occasional car, which was no big deal on the day that we were hiking. We made it to the top of the mountain as the rain started to really come down. We paused briefly for a picture and to laugh about our fortune/misfortune and hurried on our way down the other side of the mountain.

Gap of Dunloe

Our final destination on foot was the boat dock where we would board our vessel departing back towards the town of Killarney. Restrooms and a concession area were conveniently located under the nearby shelter house and offered us a chance to warm up before getting back into the elements. Once the boat was prepped we filed in and set sail on the open water.

Once at Killarney National park, we were able to catch our bus back into town. If you are not too tired, you could walk back to town through Killarney National Park or take some time to explore Ross Castle. Since we were thoroughly soaked, we opted for the bus. All in all, it was a great experience that I wouldn’t have changed for anything.

We booked our Gap of Dunloe bus and boat tour through The Gap of Dunloe Tours for 35 Euro per person.

Boat ride and Ross Castle

Since we did not have time to drive the entirety of the Ring of Kerry, we drove to Ladies View to get a panoramic view of Upper Lake Killarney and the mountains.

Ladies View

That night we had dinner at Killarney Brewing Company, which is a microbrewery that serves some unique and delicious pizza dishes. Microbreweries are a relatively new phenomenon in Ireland so my dad was excited to check it out.


 

Day 4:

Killarney to Dingle Peninsula

(Drive time: 1 hours to get to your first stop)

Today you will say goodbye to Killarney because you are on your way to the most picturesque place in Ireland. National Geographic said that Dingle Peninsula is one of the most beautiful places on Earth, and if you are a movie buff, you may notice some of the filming locations from Star Wars episode VIII, The Last Jedi. If you want that Instagram worthy shot, this is one of the places to get it! Today you will be driving clockwise around this majestic peninsula.

After only an hour, you will have made it to your first stop on the Dingle Peninsula.

Stop 1- Your first stop is Inch Beach, which is ironic because it is massive in size. Park on the beach, grab a coffee, and walk the beach while watching the novice surfers try to get up on their boards. If you ever wanted to try surfing in Ireland, this is the place!

Inch Beach

Stop 2- Your next stop will be the beehive huts. It cost a few euros to see this attraction. To see the huts, you must walk up a steep hill, but worth it to get inside and see the views from the top. If you are lucky, you might even get to hold a lamb!


Stop 3- You will not want to miss stop number three, Coumeenoole Beach. You will need to park in the Slea Head car park, but I will warn you, parking here can be a nightmare. Once you find parking, you can walk down to the beach which is surrounded by staggering cliffs and crystal blue water. I could have easily spent the day here soaking up the sun.

Coumeenoole Beach

Stop 4-Clogher Head. Parking here is much easier. A great stop to stretch your legs with more amazing views. Everywhere you look on this peninsula is picture perfect!

Clogher Bay

Stop 5- Gallarus Oratory, which is believed to be an early Christian Church. Parking here is plentiful, they also have restrooms and a gift shop with snacks and drinks. There is a small fee to see this attraction.

Stop 6- Head to Sybil Head to see where part of The Last Jedi was filmed. We didn’t stop here because it was already getting late and we wanted to have time to explore the town of Dingle.

I would suggest taking some time to walk around and explore this coastal town with its many colorful shops, restaurants, and pubs. The perfect way, in my opinion, to end any night on this Irish adventure is to find a cozy booth in one of the many pubs, enjoy a hearty Irish meal, a pint, and some traditional irish music. Slainte!

Dingle


 

Day 5:

Dingle to Doolin

Drive time: From Dingle to Doolin (without stopping) 3 hours, but you will want to stop!

In the morning, walk to Dingle Harbor in hopes of spotting Fungie the Dolphin who has been a mainstay in the harbor since 1983. Over the past 30+ years, Fungie is known to seek human interaction and engage with swimmers, kayakers, divers, and surfers alike. We were not fortunate enough to see him on this day, but if you have some extra time you could take a boat tour to get up close with this famous bottlenose dolphin.

Spend the morning touring Dingle, visiting some shops, churches and the waterfront. This is also a great place to buy a souvenir.

Once you are ready to leave the beautiful Dingle Peninsula, you will be driving over Connors Pass. Connor pass is a two way heavily trafficked mountain pass cutting through the Dingle Peninsula. On some parts of this pass, there is just enough space for one car to squeeze by–one side is a rock cliff and the other a sharp drop off the side of the mountain (Yikes!). Prior to this trip, I did my research and after reading many terrifying reviews, I became less confident in my ability to drive this part of the trip. BUT it wasn’t that bad. You need to be smart, go slow, and wait your turn. The white knuckles were definitely worth the great views!

On the way through the pass, you will want to stop at Connor Pass car park and walk up the hill to the summit. The views from the top are stunning!

Connor Pass

Keep following the road, your next stop will be a little waterfall on the right next to a car park. This is the perfect place to stop for a quick picnic lunch. Make sure to clamber up the rock path adjacent to the car park to get to Pedlar’s Lake.

After getting over Connor Pass, continue on to Doolin, the Irish music capital of the country. Use this as a home base to explore the Aran Islands and the magnificent Cliffs of Moher (pronounced: ‘Moe’ ‘Her’…I was corrected by my Irish family when I said “More.”)

Unfortunately, the white-knucle driving doesn’t end in Dingle, the trip to Doolin is on many back roads. Growing up in America, I saw alleyways that were bigger than some of the major thoroughfares to Dingle. Again, just be smart, “stay left,” and you’ll be okay. After arriving in Dingle, check into your hotel and walk to the nearest pub for a pint, you deserve it after the most difficult day of driving on your trip.

Hotel: Aran View ChaletBeautiful view, plenty of parking, kitchen, washer and dryer, good breakfast available (for a fee), within walking distance of town


 

Day 6:

Boat trip to the Aran Islands or Hiking the Cliffs of Moher

Drive time: 5-10 minutes to the pier

Today our group of four split up into two groups.

Boat trip to Aran Islands:

Map of the main attractions on Inisheer

Brent and I took a ferry to the Aran Island of Inisheer, the smallest of the three Aran Islands. We chose this island because it was only a 30 minute ferry ride from Dingle; far closer than the other two.

We booked this trip through Doolin Ferries.

Please note that you will be at the mercy of the sea, so depending on the day it could be a quite choppy. You might want to pull out that dramamine for this part of the trip.

Once you get off the ferry, you will be greeted by a few pubs, restaurants and hotels. We chose to explore this little island on foot, but renting bikes is also another great option. As you walk, you will see people selling food, jewelry, and other goods.

We stopped and bought the most beautiful slate necklaces from a guy selling jewelry on the side of the road. We watched as he expertly chiseled numerous symbols onto the small slate tags. On the necklaces that we bought was a symbol from Newgrange Tombs, which we visited on the first day. This symbol depicted a fern and means “new beginnings.”

We didn’t have an agenda while we were on the island, so we just walked and saw what we saw. We walked to an old cemetery, explored the ruins of a castle, and hung out with some cows. There is also a shipwreck and lighthouse on the island, but we didn’t manage our time well enough to make it there by foot. As we sat by the ocean and waited for our ferry back to the mainland, we had time to catch our breath and reflect on the wonderful trip that we had experienced so far.

On the ferry ride back, we were treated to a view that I had never seen before…The Cliffs of Moher from the water. You don’t realize how small you really are until you are overshadowed by these 700 foot (214 meter) cliffs.

Next stop: Cliffs of Moher. No trip to Ireland is complete without a visit to these iconic cliffs.


PROTIP: The Cliffs of Moher are FREE to visit. If you go to the visitor center, they will charge you 7 Euro per person for access to the visitor center and to park your car.


Want to park for cheap? Drive towards Hag’s Head and park on a farmer’s land for only 2 Euro per car. Ask the tour company at the Ferry; they should be able to direct you to the cheap parking lot at Hag Head.


When we got there, we stupidly thought that we could pay with a card (why? I have no idea.) We had spent all of our cash on those slate necklaces, so we were frantically searching the car for spare change. I believe we were able to scrounge up a Euro and 20 cents. The old Irish gentleman said in the sweetest way, “Ahh go on, I can’t keep ye from seeing the cliffs!” This is a prime example of the kindness and generosity of the Irish.

The parking lot was gravel and had ample parking. The other benefit to parking there is that there are far fewer people then there would be at the visitor center. After parking, you will walk up a short dirt path to the cliffs. Easy-peasy! The cliffs of Moher are 9 miles long, so spend as much time as you want walking along the cliffs, but remember don’t get too close, especially on a windy day.

Walking the Cliffs of Moher

While we were in the Aran Islands, Lisa and Jackie walked the entirety of the Cliffs of Moher. From our hotel to the end and back was approximately 17 miles!

Hotel: Aran View ChaletBeautiful view, plenty of parking, kitchen, washer and dryer, good breakfast available (for a fee), within walking distance of town


 

Day 7:

Dingle, Connemara, Westport

Today you are heading North to the little port town of Westport along the Western coast of Ireland. This will be another long day of driving.

Stop 1: (Drive time: 2.5 hours) On your way to Westport, stop in Connemara National Park to complete a couple mile hike on one of their beautiful and well-maintained trails.

The views were spectacular throughout the entire hike. This is definitely a place that I would like to come back and spend a few days.

Connemara National Park

Stop 2: Make sure to stop and take a picture of Kylemore Abbey once you are back on the road to Westport. We didn’t have time to take a tour, but if you can fit an extra day into your itinerary this would be a great place to do it.


Stop 3: (Drive time 1.5 hours) We arrived in Westport in the late afternoon, checked into our Airbnb and met up with my Aunt and Uncle who drove in from Dublin. This is one of their favorite places to “holiday” in Ireland. Westport, as the name implies, is a port town, right on the water with fantastic views of the mammoth mountain that we would be trying to conquer tomorrow. We ate dinner at The Helm, had a pint and went to bed early in preparation for our early start tomorrow.


 

Day 8:

Hiking Croagh Patrick

Drive time: 10 minutes

Today you will be summiting the holiest mountain in all of Ireland. For 5,000 years, people have been making the traditional pilgrimage to this holy mountain. Saint Patrick, the patron saint of Ireland, was said to have fasted for 40 days on the summit in 441AD. Many travel here every year in remembrance of loved ones or to ask for blessings for the sick, so we knew we had to make this trek.

From Westport, make the short drive to the free car park right at the entrance of the trailhead. Before getting on the trail make sure to rent hiking sticks for 2 euro a pair.

PRO TIP: GET THE HIKING STICK! They became an invaluable resource during the trek.

Now, here is my warning; This is one of the HARDEST hikes that I have ever done. We have hiked in the Smoky Mountains, the Rocky Mountains, Bryce Canyon, and Zion National park, but Croagh Patrick tops the cake. Here is why. It isn’t the length or the altitude, it is the fact that for a good portion of the trek you are walking over boulders that slide out from right under your feet with each step. It is literally one step forward and two steps back. I couldn’t believe that people do this without shoes!

The first portion of the hike is an easy enough uphill dirt path along a creek. This path turns into a more gravel like path the farther you get.

You will have a break to catch your breath and use the restroom half way through the hike on a flat portion of the trail. You will definitely want to use this time to catch your breath because the next section is the “boulder portion” which will take you to the summit.

I am not sure of the exact distances of each part, but from the parking lot to the top and back is 4.2 miles or 7km.

There was a collective congenial spirit amongst the hikers throughout the trek. Brent and Jackie made it their mission to summit as quickly as they could, they completed the trek in 1.5 hours. While Lisa and I took a more relaxed approach, taking photos and breaks as needed, we made it to the top in a little over two hours.

Once you get to the top, you are greeted by fantastic 360 degree views of the Irish countryside and Clew Bay. There are restrooms, a small chapel, and a spot for offerings called “St. Patricks Bed,” which is where people put pictures and knick-knacks of loved ones whom they want blessing bestowed upon. We said many prayers, took pictures, and headed back down the mountain the same way we came up.

View from the summit of Croagh Patrick

The trip down was just as difficult as going up. Use your hiking stick to keep balance, and be mindful of twisting an ankle or falling on your ‘arse,’ which I did a time or two.

Once you reach the bottom, walk across the street to see the monument commemorating the millions of people who lost their lives during the Great Famine 150 years ago.

Now head back into town to rest up and get ready for dinner. We liked the Helm so much the night before that we ate there again tonight.


 

Day 9:

Westport, Knock, Derry, Giant’s Causeway

In the morning, Brent and his family went for a walk around the grounds of Westport House which is a sprawling Geogian-era estate with lush green gardens and a lake. This is a nice place for a quick morning walk before getting back on the road.

After packing up and saying our goodbyes, we were back on the road again bound for Northern Ireland.


Stop 1- (Drive time: 45 minutes) Make a quick stop in the Knock before leaving the Republic of Ireland to visit the shrine that millions travel to see every year in search of healing, reconciliation, and peace.


Stop 2- (Drive time: 2 hours and 40 minutes) Welcome to Northern Ireland! Derry/Londonderry was not on my original itinerary, but ended up making a great stopping point for our journey to Giant’s Causeway. We walked the walls and observed the murals from afar. If you’re a history buff and would like to learn more about The Troubles, then Derry would be an excellent overnight stop. In past trips to Ireland, I spent a night in Derry. I went on a tear-jerking walking tour of Derry to see where Bloody Sunday took place; This is an absolute must.


Stop 3: (Drive time: 1 hour) Do you like Whiskey or do you know someone that likes whiskey? If so, you should visit the Bushmills Whiskey distillery. There are tours of the distillery available and they have an extensive gift shop. This is where you can get that perfect souvenir for your whiskey-loving friends and family.

After visiting Bushmills, we checked into our hotel, ate dinner, and enjoyed the most beautiful sunset that we had seen all trip.


 

Day 10:

Giant’s Causeway, GOT sights, Dublin

Drive time: Giant’s Causeway to Dublin is 2 hrs 40 min. (without the stops)

Stop 1: We woke up early and headed to see Giant’s Causeway. Giant’s Causeway is an area of about 40,000 interlocking basalt columns which were the result of an ancient volcanic fissure eruption.

PROTIP: Just like the Cliffs of Moher, you do not need to pay to enter. You will pay to park or take the shuttle bus to the actual site, which is about a mile away from the visitor center.

Lucky for us, we got up early and had a very short drive so we were able to park on the street across the road from the entrance to Giants Causeway. Getting there early will also allow you to beat the tour groups! Plan to spend at least two hours here.

Giants Causeway

Stop 2: I had just finished binge-watching Game of Thrones before this trip so we just HAD to see where some of it was filmed. We grabbed a guide from our hotel, plugged in the addresses into our GPS and took ourselves on a self-guided tour of two of the filming locations. Alternatively, you can hire a tour group to show you around. If you are interested in seeing all of the sites, I would suggest adding an extra day onto your itinerary.

Game of Thrones attractions in Northern Ireland

Stop 3: Walk across the Carrick-a-rede Rope bridge if you dare. As the name implies, this is a rope bridge that links the mainland to the island of Carricarede. You can walk across the bridge for a fee. It’s scenic but can get very congested with tour groups.

Carrick-a-rede rope bridge

We skipped the bridge and opted to stretch out legs in the Glens. We may have only spent 30 minutes here, but this is a place that I would like to spend more time in the future.


Optional: On the way back to Dublin, you will drive through Belfast. I visited Belfast in 2013 on a Paddywagon tour, and it just didn’t fit into this itinerary but it does have a lot to offer for tourists. Most notable, the black taxi tours and the Titanic museum. Did you know that the Titanic was built in Belfast? At the museum, you can see the bay where the Titanic was constructed as well as artifacts recovered from the unsinkable ship.

That night we went to Roches, the famous sinking pub, in County Kildare with my Irish family. What a great way to end this adventure!

Since you will most likely not have family in the area, I would suggest dropping your car off at the airport and making your way to Dublin. Spend the night exploring Temple Bar where most pubs will be playing traditional Irish music and serving you overpriced drinks.


 

Day 11:

Dublin

Spend the day exploring Dublin.

To utilize your time efficiency, use a Hop-on Hop-off bus system. There are two major companies who run this service. The buses run on a loop and will take you to the major attractions in Dublin. The bus driver will also provide you with history and information for each of the sight. You can buy these passes at the airport or at many locations throughout Dublin. I have used both tour companies over the years, and I think they are similar.


My favorite attractions in Dublin:

  1. Kilmainham Gaol– Tickets for this attraction sell out fast, so you must buy them ahead of time. I think we bought ours a day or two in advance.

  2. The Natural History Museum is amazing, and it’s free!

  3. Guinness Factory (because..when in Ireland) or if you are a whiskey connoisseur the Jameson factory is another good option.

  4. St. Patrick’s Cathedral and grounds are beautiful. Christ’s Church and crypts are across the street so check that out while you are there.

  5. Walk through Phoenix Park and visit the Dublin zoo.

  6. Shop on Graftin Street.

We only had one day in Dublin before Brent had to fly home. So we knew we had to make the most of it. We used a hop-on-hop-off tour company (the green one) to make the most out of our day. Unfortunately the day was rainy and miserable. We started the day at the Natural History Museum. Our tour at Kilmainham Gaol was scheduled for 2:00, so we made our way across town for that. Make sure you schedule enough time to get across town on the hop-on-hop off, it is not a short trip. If you are a history buff, you need to visit Kilmainham.


I offered to take Brent to the Guiness Factory where he could learn to pour his own pint and have 360 degree view of Dublin, but since I had been there many times and the price of admission is quite steep, we opted to drive around on the bus and listen to some more of the stories told by the driver.


We had a quick dinner in Dublin and then headed back to Maynooth where we were staying with my family. After exploring other parts of Ireland, Dublin on a rainy day was a let down. Dublin is a great city, but if you go to Ireland and expect to get the whole Irish experience in Dublin, you will be missing out.


Optional: We contemplated skipping Dublin altogether and using this last day to go to Glendalough in the Wicklow Mountains, but Brent really wanted to see Dublin, understandably. I mean who goes to Ireland and doesn’t explore Dublin for at least a day? Glendalough is another one of my favorite places (I have many favorites if you couldn’t tell!) Glendalough is within an hour of where I grew up, so as a kid we would pack a picnic lunch and take a daytrip to the mountains. I have been there dozens of times, but each time I go back it is just as amazing. After Brent went home, I stayed for a week just to visit with my elderly grandparents, and other family who I hadn’t been able to spend time with throughout this trip. On one of the days, we went for a hike in the Wicklow Mountains. If you have an extra day or if you don’t have a desire to see Dublin, head out to the beautiful Glendalough. You can easily get there by car from Dublin or you can go with a tour group from Dublin.

Wicklow Mountains

Day 12: Flight home

We felt a true sense of accomplishment and satisfaction in tackling this itinerary. It struck a perfect balance between family fun and ambitious exploration. We hope that this itinerary will help you plan and thoroughly enjoy your Irish Adventure! Thank you for reading.


Want to add a few extra days on the Emerald Isle? Here are some suggestions.

  1. 1 day in Kinsale or Cork. Visit The Blarney Castle

  2. 1 more day in Killarney- Drive the ring of Kerry and visit Skellig Michael (book tickets weeks ahead of time)

  3. 1 more day in Dingle.

  4. 1 or 2 day in Galway. Another major city, but I find Galway to be more quaint than Dublin. This is also a good starting point if you wanted to go to Inis Mor, the Largest Aran Island. You can take the train from Dublin (Heuston Station) direct to Galway in about 2.5 hours.

  5. 1 night in Connemara. Hikes in Connemara National Park and a tour of Kylemore Abbey.

  6. 1 day in Sligo

  7. 1 day in Derry- Bloody Sunday walking tour

  8. 1 day Belfast to shorten the drive from Giant’s Causeway to Dublin. Belfast is chock full of history and has an awesome Titanic museum.

  9. 1 or 2 extra days Dublin

  10. 1 day Glendalough/Wicklow Mountains

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