Itinerary
Day 1:
Arriving in Lisbon
As I made my descent into Lisbon, home to 3 million people, we were treated to sweeping views of this capital city that sits strategically at the mouth of the Tagus River. Lisbon Portela Airport was very manageable and we were able to gather our carry-on bags quickly and find the exit. My dad, aunt, and two cousins were flying in from Ireland, and I would be meeting them at the airport to head to our hotel. Let this family vacation begin!
We Ubered to our hotel near the city center and luckily we were armed with the following tip as it was slightly confusing to locate: the pick up point is in the departure terminal—go to the right and up the escalator to the 2nd floor. Walk out the doors to the right and cross the street to see a one-way, horseshoe-shaped parking lot full of ride sharing drivers constantly looping through. Our Uber ride was 7 Euro and took about 15-20 minutes in light traffic.
After plopping our luggage down, we hit the streets. We enjoyed comfortable weather while we were in Portugal (even by thin-blooded Floridian standards). It was around lunch time and the streets were slowly starting to liven up.
We explored the city and began to orient ourselves. We used Google Maps to start combing down Lisbon’s charming streets and pedestrian-only areas. This was our first glimpse at some of the elaborate blue tiling that Portugal is often associated with. Many of the squares have a mesmerizing pattern created with smooth stone, artfully cobbled together. Beware: it is very slick under foot with any precipitation and is a healthy challenge to see who has the best (and worst) balance.
Another uniquely Portuguese-primarily Lisboa delight- are the cozy little Ginginja stands, which serve a tasty shot of sour cherry liqueur ; you decide if you want it with (“com elas”) or without (“sem elas”) the berries nestled in your little glass. For my money, give me cherries every time, just watch for pits.
We strolled around taking in city squares and lovely old churches, watching as trolley cars rattled by. Before we knew it, it was dark and time to eat. Being from Florida (home of the early bird special), I had to adapt to the eating schedule of our home for the next ten days, which is simple enough if you’re mildly adaptable. We ended up eating at an Indian restaurant near our hotel, so we could waltz back and crash early that night. Boa noite!
Day 2:
Lisbon
Bom dia! We woke up early, enjoyed a Portuguese breakfast and then headed for the iconic Praca do Comercio on Lisbon’s waterfront. This is the place for panoramic views of the Tagus River and Golden Gate reminiscent Ponte 25 de Abril bridge. We pulled up a seat at a cafe and planned our day.
We set our sights on the Alfama neighborhood, with no firm plans in mind. We walked along the waterfront and eventually picked a street to start making our climb up into the heart of the Alfama. Following no particular route, we wandered past cafes and a smattering of souvenir shops, but always aiming towards the top, which is capped by the Castelo de Sao Jorge. I found it to be very quiet and peaceful and was fascinated by an outdoor urinal tucked in a corner and musicians performing from a random balcony. It’s an increasingly trendy area, home to a great deal of Lisbon’s maritime culture and once a central area during periods of Moorish occupation.
My 12 year old cousin and I decided we’d like to get into the castle and have a look. It offered us a nice chance to catch our breath from the climb, beautiful panoramic views of the city, and our first look at some of the fascinating fortresses and architecture packed into this modest country. Watching over us on the walls outside of the castle were several peacocks, oddly out of place, but adding to the surreal feeling we were enjoying.
Afterwards, we wound our way down oriented towards the location of our hotel, but still without cut and dry directions. It’s such a privilege to get lost in these cities, if only for a bit, and gaze upon street corners and artistic touches from bygone eras.
After reconvening and resting for a bit at the hotel, we set out to meet our tour guide, Lucia, at the Praca do Comercio. We enjoyed how she simplified the city for us, taking us to landmarks and boundaries that made the city easier to understand and navigate. She was impressed with how much ground we had already covered and was open to all kinds of questions.
We discussed everything from football allegiances (soccer) to Portugal’s colonial past. As we worked our way back up into the Alfama, strolling the quiet streets at dusk, we stumbled across a pastry shop to try a beloved Lisboan treat we heard so much about, the pastel de nata. We ended our tour at a tasca she recommended as it was a Sunday evening and most haunts were closing. Tascas are cozy little gathering spots scattered throughout neighborhoods, serving inexpensive and delicious food and drinks. We absolutely loved the tascas of Portugal, I wish one would pop up in my neighborhood back home! They always felt inviting and very unassuming, when you find one you like, stay awhile and savor the ambience. On our way back we stopped in for some little glasses of Sagres beer, some dry white port wine and assorted meats and cheeses. Excelente! We were warmly welcomed in and proceeded to spend a healthy hour eating local fare and drinking, catching up on the day. They were kind enough to let us have a taste of vinho verde or green wine, a uniquely Portuguese delight. It was the perfect ending to a packed day.
Sidenote: I always have an interesting conundrum when I’m in other countries. I want to practice the tidbits of native language I’ve learned, but it can lead the respondent to go full speed ahead in that language thinking I’m fluent. I’m typically pretty timid stateside, but I think travel forces you to be more assertive and free-spirited. That’s part of the absolute fun of traveling to me. If you don’t have at least a handful of awkward moments, you’re not doing it right….right [laughs nervously]? English has become so widely spoken across Europe that many people are as interested in practicing their English as we are in “showing off” our very basic Portuguese. I’d like to thank the wonderful Portuguese folks for kindly humoring me!
Day 3:
Sintra
This was a big day with lots of logistical challenges, but worth the extra legwork. After breakfast, we got our day trip started off from Rossio station, Lisbon’s main railway hub. We took the train out to Sintra, a stunning area full of palaces, castles and picturesque scenery-much of which is contained within a massive nature park. The train from Rossio station to Sintra runs 4x/hour and is 5.00 Euro round trip. While Sintra is a major tourist spot, we had minimal waits for transportation and attractions. A common sight here was motorized rickshaws trying to solicit people to ditch the bus and let them zip you up the hill (at a higher cost). We got off the train and had to do a bit of orienting to find the right bus/shuttle to drop us near our desired starting point for the day, the Pena Palace. We toured along the outside of the palace, opting to spend about an hour there. We snapped some great photos of the countryside and the air was crisp and calm as we peered out the ramparts. We stopped at the little cafe attached to the palace for a bite, and decided on a whim to go towards the high cross in the distance, which turned out to be the Cruz Alta.
Pena Palace in Sintra, Portugal
The walk from Pena Palace to the Cruz Alta was a nature lover’s dream and a nice workout for the legs as it brings you up over 500 meters. Little did we know, this is the highest point in the park and a phenomenal place to view the Pena Palace from afar. You really got a sense of how sprawling the park is; a great spot to meditate and reflect. We all climbed up to the top and were treated to another breathtaking view. It’s well worth the little side hike, if you have an extra hour or so to spare.
We made our way back towards our original entrance into the park and hopped a bus headed towards the Moorish Castle. The contrast between these two structures is astonishing. We walked the walls of the castle all the way up to the highest point. It offered plenty of additional exercise. The views you can take in from each vantage point are unbelievable, you simply can’t find a bad view. This was truly a full and awe inspiring day, the amount of historical structures and ground we trod along was amazing. An absolute must visit! Tickets to the Palace and Moorish castle were were around 7 euro each for adults and 6 euro each for children 18.
The Moorish Castle in Sintra, Portugal
By the time we were on the train back, the sun was getting lower in the sky. We were ready to work our way back to Lisbon to get cleaned up for dinner. It was much easier headed back, since the crowds were thinner and we had some familiarity with how things worked. We decided that this being the last night before Sarah’s family left we’d try to find ourselves an actual Portuguese restaurant to finally eat at. We selected a place right around the corner from our hotel, and tried some chicken piri piri. Following dinner we had a few nightcaps at the nearby tasca, which was the perfect send off before our Irish contingent left in the morning.
Day 4:
It was rainy and miserable outside, so we took it slow. We walked (very carefully) down some of the main drags. We stopped to have an espresso and pastry to warm up, before deciding we’d browse around a multilevel shopping mall our tour guide showed us. There wasn’t a ton of signage indicating where this place was, so it was bizarre to stumble into this huge mall out of the rain. We took the chance to dry off and firm up some plans. The previous day I noticed that the Lisbon Coliseum was literally right across from our hotel. My curious mind got to digging and lo and behold a personal favorite band of mine from college days, Vampire Weekend, was playing just across the street from our hotel THAT NIGHT…what are the chances?! This injected some excitement into our rainy day.
That evening, we got there early to get situated. It was a truly memorable experience, sitting there enjoying a band I’ve listened to for 15 years in a foreign country…it must’ve been written! This was the icing on the cake for Lisbon and now we were ready to head out on the next leg of our journey to the medieval walled city of Obidos the following day.
Another option for today would have been to head to Evora or to explore more of Lisbon or Belem.
Day 5:
Óbidos
That morning, we packed up and said good-bye to the capital city. We called an Uber and were dropped off at Lisbon’s primary bus station at the Rodoviaria de Lisboa. It happens to be right next to the Jose Alvalade Stadium, home of Sporting Lisbon football team.
We boarded a midmorning bus bound for this curious little one night stop.
You journey through the sprawling countryside for about an hour, when out of nowhere this distinctive city built up on a hill comes into view. The bus drops you off just outside of the walls and you climb a set of stairs, past an old ferris wheel up to get to the gates. It was a sunny and quiet day and we worked our way to what was the fanciest hotel we stayed at throughout the trip. We tested out the durability of our luggage wheels on the cobblestone and got a brief glimpse of this fortress of a city.
We spent a few hours strolling through the main, pedestrian-only drags and got ourselves a Ginginja served in an edible dark chocolate glass. Working our way to the highest point, we were treated to sweeping views of the entire city including a church that was converted into a library, village squares and a seemingly endless view out into the countryside as the winter sun was getting low.
We had our first taste of Portuguese vegetable soup, which we were told natives hold in high esteem, and I can see why. We enjoyed a late night dinner at one of the dimly lit little bistros. Note: It’s important to know the Portuguese practice of placing assorted appetizers on the table, sometimes right as you sit down. This is called couvert and is entirely customary, however, do know that you will pay for anything you eat and it will be added to your final bill. Depending on the place and how hungry we were, we occasionally politely declined the couvert before even placed on the table, which was no problem.
We couldn’t resist the urge to take another lighthearted stroll after dinner underneath strings of lights. It was a short stopover, but well worth the visit before you continue north by bus or car.
Day 6:
Nazaré
From Obidos, we boarded a bus outside of the city walls headed towards the seaside town of Nazare. Perhaps the town’s biggest claim to fame are the monstrous waves that occasionally swell to over a hundred feet, attracting fearless surfers from across the globe. It was overcast upon our arrival and a bit sleepy. We worked our way from the bus stop to our hotel, which was perfectly situated a 5 minute walk from the Atlantic Ocean. From our hotel balcony we saw the crashing waves and boardwalk that straddled the beach. This was an obvious place to start our exploration of the town. Along the boardwalk were the characteristic old fisherman’s’ wives, selling dried cod and other briny bits.
Nazare, Portugal
You will become quite familiar with the Portuguese preparation of this dried, salted cod known as bacalhau – a national delicacy. It’s rehydrated before being cooked and is said to be prepared in over 365 different ways. We found it rather tasty along with all of Portugal’s fresh seafood. Where better than Nazare to get such fresh ocean fare?
We strolled a bit and got familiar with the layout of the city. You can weave down endless stretches of backstreets and run into small markets and inconspicuous restaurants. Being off season, it was extra peaceful and intimate.
We decided on a little restaurant about two short blocks from the hotel and my how we lucked out. A Tasquinha was a warm, cozy little family restaurant and produced our favorite meal(s) of the trip. We were waited on by the part owner, Carlos, who was so welcoming and crafted the perfect seafood dinner for us by asking us a few simple questions. We were so endeared that we ate dinner here both nights and were treated to a complimentary glass of port, which we gratefully enjoyed alongside our new friend Carlos. I highly encourage you to visit this establishment, you will not be disappointed! Consider making reservations as it fills up fast even during off season.
Day 7:
Nazare – Sitio
We woke early to grab a quick pastry and coffee at the cafe across the street and set our sights on Sitio, the community at the top of a large hilltop. From our hotel balcony we could see the town from a distance. There is a funicular to take you back and forth, however it wasn’t running at this time.
We wanted to make the scenic hike anyway, so we were happy to weave our way up. The zig zagging, steep path offers some outstanding views. The beginning of the path is a bit hidden, but follow a number of spray painted walls indicating “Sitio.” The path opens onto a village square of sorts and is a great place to catch your breath and get priceless views of Nazare.
There’s a number of points of interest if you do a little searching. We started by going out to a cliffside area containing a lighthouse where people typically view the gargantuan waves this area of Portugal is known for. After working our way back to the little village square, we popped into the large church containing the Black Madonna. Before descending back to Nazare, we walked through a small maritime museum, which as free to enter. At the top of the descent, we grabbed a glass of wine to sit and enjoy the view. It was a great way to spend the day!
That night, after enjoying another delicious dinner, we stopped by a little bar along the boardwalk facing the ocean for a drink. We watched as the owner played soccer with his grandson inside the tiny bar area and stared off into the dark night, listening to the waves crashing from the mighty Atlantic. So many poignant memories. Tomorrow we would be off to Portugal’s “second city, ”Porto.
Day 8:
Porto
After the 2 and a half hour bus ride from Nazare, we dropped our luggage off and started exploring. We worked our way south towards the Praca da Liberdade (Liberty Square), which is a sprawling and bustling area containing city hall, a powerful statue of King Pedro IV-a civil war hero from the 1800’s and the infamous “Imperial McDonald’s” among fathoms of other interesting architecture and cultural landmarks.
Porto, Portugal
We were witness to the beginning of the Christmas season in Porto and were treated to tree lighting displays and fireworks during our time in town. We had dinner near Sao Bento Train Station, which is definitely worth stopping by with it’s beautiful tile work celebrating Porto’s rich history in both peace and wartime. We found that you simply could not go wrong with how you approached this lovely city. Other sites that we were struck by were the Carmo Church with it’s side covered in intricate blue azulejos (as the tiles are known), the intimate little Praca Guilherme Gomes Fernandes-a square honoring the leader of an early fire brigade (and a good place for a bite to eat) and the Clerigos Church and Tower-where I snapped perhaps my favorite picture from Porto.
The streets all angle you downward towards the Douro River, so you are almost certain to end up there gazing at the Ponte Dom Luis I, Porto’s iconic double decker bridge of sorts. Stroll along the riverfront and appreciate the majestic view and lively scene. You’ll see the Port wine caves across the river packed along the hillside, dotted by signs advertising the different wineries and craftsman of this native wine. We planned on hitting the wine caves the next day so time to head back, gotta save some for tomorrow!
Day 9:
Porto
We awoke to a sunny and brisk morning. Porto was about 10 degrees cooler than Lisbon, but we loved every minute of that crisp air. After a quick breakfast, we eased into the day knowing we’d like to take a trolley ride and we’d be going to see FC Porto play at the Estadio do Dragao that evening….or would we? Upon stopping at a FC Porto outlet store to pick up a scarf to look the part, the salesman confirms that the game is actually tomorrow! Oh no, how will we work that in…well we found a way, but I’ll get to that.
We found ourselves listing downhill back towards the river and hoping to find a trolley car to roll us around the city. Prior to our trolley ride, we stopped by the Sao Francisco Church, which is Porto’s only Gothic style church and offers a nice perch to gaze across the river.
As we watched packed trolleys go by headed towards the main drags of Porto, we decided to mix it up on a whim and head out towards Foz do Douro, where the river meets the Atlantic. We rode the vintage trolley (line #1) to the end of the line and hopped off to a cobblestone street lined with palm trees hugging the coast. There were lighthouses, gardens and a picturesque harbor ; a perfect place to relax and have a picnic or rest. We caught our breath and prepared for a busy rest of our evening.
After taking the trolley back into the city, we began to wind our way along the riverfront over to the Ponte Dom Luis I. The lower level has narrow sidewalks along a two lane road which you can use to cross to the other side of the river. The bridge above you is for the trams as well as pedestrians. This short trip across gives you a whole new perspective on this lovely, dare I say one of our favorite, cities in Europe – so underrated. It’s much quieter over here and if you look down the road you’ll count over 20 signs for each Port brand/winery in this area.
So which Port winery do we want to check out? Well, since neither of us had much experience with Port we sort of wound our way up the hills and came across a very renowned vintner in Taylor’s. Ticket and tour info here. It was a wonderful, roughly hour long self-guided tour which was both educational and entertaining. I’m told it was one of the fancier tours, but I’m certain any of them would be a nice introduction or sampling of Port wine. Anyway, afterward we got to taste some of the finished product. We liked it so much that we each ordered another glass and a cheese plate from their cozy cafe/restaurant. It was a lovely way to spend the evening and capped another enjoyable day in Portugal. On the way back after crossing back to the main side of the river, we decided to climb perhaps the longest set of stairs I’ve ascended in my life to get back to the upper streets near the main square. We made it back to our hotel with heavy legs and wanted to turn in early as we had an early morning ahead of us.
Day 10:
Douro Valley
Douro River Valley tour and cruise day! After grabbing a quick breakfast we waited patiently for our tour guide to pick us up and drive us out to the Douro Valley, home of the grapes we enjoyed in wine from the night before. We shared a van with people from all over the globe and our driver/tour guide, Paolo. It was about an hour drive to get to our destination and we were happy to get out and stretch our legs while gazing at the vineyards and hillsides angling towards the river.
We learned about the very interesting and tradition-laden process of making Port wine. There was plenty of time for pictures and a nice tasting at the end of each kind of Port; tawny, ruby and white.
Now that everyone was getting loosened up (read: buzzed), it was time to head down to our boat for a cruise down the beautiful Douro River. We were given another sampling of Port on the boat and marveled at the landscape around us. We had a chance to talk with some of our fellow tourists and enjoy what turned out to be the perfect weather. After about an hour we made it back to land to have a nice lunch at a nearby rustic farm and winery. Following dinner, we had yet another little tour of the grounds and gazed upon a bottle of Port worth over $4,000….maybe next trip!
It was mid afternoon and everyone was ready to head back to the city with a full belly and plenty of Port circulating in their bloodstreams. The collective van slept the whole way back and we needed the rest because we were still going to make the FC Porto game!
After gathering ourselves back at our hotel for a very brief moment, we planned our route to the Estadio do Dragao (Stadium of the Dragon), home of the beloved FC Porto and first European soccer match I would get to take in. We hopped on the train at the stop nearest to our hotel and were headed straight to the stadium. We found the train very easy to navigate, clean and comfortable. Just follow the pack of blue and white clad fans on the train if in doubt. The game saw Porto defeat a nearby rival and the stadium erupt in absolute pandemonium when someone jumped on the field mid match leading stewards and security on a comedic chase across the length of the pitch. I’ll never forget this goal! We ubered back to the hotel following the match and were treated to some of the narrowest roads a human can possibly drive on. At one point the GPS lead the driver down an alley that eventually narrowed to a point that a motorcycle would’ve had trouble getting through. He popped it in reverse as the GPS spun us down swirling side streets on the periphery of the city. “Voce fala ingles?” – meaning “do you speak English” was asked as we became confused on the route...I was convinced we were being set up to be kidnapped haha. Our driver eventually got us to our location and was given a muito obrigado senhor (thank you very much, sir)! Wow, what a way to end our last night in Portugal. Time to start packing and getting the will to leave this beautiful country, full of culture and wonderful people.
Day 11:
Flight from Porto
We ubered to Porto’s main airport, Francisco Sa Carneiro Airport with plenty of time to reflect and get situated. We would make a stop in Madrid before making the trip back across the Atlantic to Florida. This was an amazing trip, done at just the right time of year, which we were so fortunate to experience.
If you read this far, thank you! Kind regards and happy traveling!
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