Itinerary:
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After arriving in Munich, I picked up my rental car and headed to my hotel. Knowing I needed to fig the jet lag and feed my rumbling stomach, I headed for the city. I admired the architecture and the gardens as I made my way thorugh the city on foot. I stoppers at a self-serve beer garden and gathered up some Bavarian staples- beer, sausage and potatoes. If you are in doubt when presented with a drink menu, just order the first beer on the menu ; usually a refreshing lager of some variety and near perfection every time. This was comfort and peace personified on a picnic table.
I was plenty jet lagged, but now I had a bit more pep. Okay, what would you do next? If you said, go to Englischer Garten (park) to watch people surf the waves caused by the outflow of the Eisbach River under a bridge (which you know you did) you are correct.
I sat on a grassy riverbank and watched some really talented river surfers take their chances. Once dumped off the wave they’d just float down the steady current of the little river and hop out in a shallow spot. The Munchen locals were soaking up their sun, with plenty not shy about basking nude. Oh my, “won’t someone please think of the children (probably won’t be my last Simpsons reference)!” But really, good on you Germany – live and let live. That pep I mentioned earlier wore off quite a bit as that sauerkraut took over. I went supine next to the gentle sound of the river and drifted into a deep snooze.
After a much needed nap, I continued exploring this beautiful city. Next stop, Odeonsplatz, an early 19th-century square lined with buildings containing Roman influences. It’s been a very illustrious ground for a ton of influential German history, both good and bad. The annual parade to Oktoberfest still follows along this route. You’ll see lion sculptures and a statue of Ludwig I in the square among other pieces you’ll want to inspect. I think this was my first time I really felt the significance of each stone and step we tread upon.
I got some momentum and walked back through the Marienplatz, a stunning city center square containing St. Peter’s Church, town hall and a toy museum. This city’s inhabitants are young, I mean felt like a giant college town young. The median age is around 34 years old, which is juuuuuust a bit more youthful than Florida. I strolled and increasingly felt more at ease. There are no gaudy high rises near city center and nothing is supposed to soar higher than the top of the historic churches and landmarks so far as we could make out.
Another place to take a tranquil walk before or after you experience the bustle of the squares is the Hofgarten, which is a extremely well kept city park with court gardens of the 17th century Royal residence. This was a wonderful spot to pass through as we zig zagged back towards the hotel. The weather was pleasant and sun was getting lower. I know it’s easy to romanticize a city you’ll only briefly call home, but we were really digging Munich at this point.
Wafter checking into my hotel, I cleaned up and headed out looking for a dinner. I think I initially had plans to go to the actual Hofbrauhaus, but between my hunger and the distance I popped into a nearby “smaller” (easily held over a thousand people and that’s a real lowball estimate) beer garden. The atmosphere seemed very jovial and it was primarily open air drinking and dining.
This was during the height of the 2018 World Cup in soccer fanatic Germany. Germany had one of their worst showings in decades and was bounced in the group stages (they won the whole thing in 2014!). There was a bit of gusto taken out of the locals I’m certain, but people still cheered on their northern neighbor, Belgium, as they fought their way much deeper in the tournament. I caught the attention of a server and received a pretzel the size of a steering wheel and a beer. For our main course we enjoyed what else….more sausage, potatoes and sauerkraut. I don’t know that I knew exactly how or what to order, but this was another delicious concoction. I’ll assure you that I did not do three consecutive sausage potato meals…I'm not an animal! I sat and dined as nightfall set in, it was a really perfect wrap up to a long day. Ah, the beer the beer, how I miss that beer.
Day 2: Dachau Concentration Camp, Neuschwanstein Castle, Alpine Lake Plansee, Ettal
Stop 1: Dachau Concentration Camp
Drive time: 30 minutes
My first stop would be a somber one, Dachau Concentration Camp. I had no idea what to expect or what the tone would be. When I first see the towers, ditches and high razor wire fences you can only begin to imagine the terror innocent people endured here. I picked up some audio-guides to help us navigate and learn as we went. Walking through the gates and seeing the whole yard and buildings sprawled out in front of you is sobering. I slowly weaved my way through to really hear and feel these stories being told. The quiet walking through the camp ended with the heart-wrenching viewing of the crematoriums. After exiting you’re able to walk to nearby memorial gardens with symbolic signs of hope and healing. I think this was a really important thing to see, this is far from being ancient history.
Stop 2: Neuschwanstein Castle
Drive time: 1 hour and 40 minutes
The drive to Neuschwanstein Castle was pastoral and truly stunning as we worked our way further out into the Bavarian countryside.
Now we’re headed closer to the Austrian border to see the 19th Century Romanesque Revival palace commissioned by Ludwig II. The trip took a bit over 90 minutes as the behemoth of a castle perched on a rocky, rugged hill came into view.
Traffic was pretty steady as people funneled into different parking areas and got themselves prepared to hoof it up towards the gates. Neuschwanstein receives as many as 1.3 million visitors annually with summer naturally being the high season. I never felt overwhelmed by crowds as there are multiple routes to ascend to the top and an expansive area to explore.
The view of Neuschwanstein Castle from Marienbruke Bridge.
I was able to purchase tickets for a hop on hop bus leading to the top for a few Euros. The bus was very convenient, sweeping you past multiple stops where you could de-bus and decide to go it the rest of the way on foot. I did just that and walked at least half of the way to the top, some along the steep road and some cutting through beautiful green paths. The trekking is a moderate to somewhat strenuous hike upward, but I encourage you to hazard a bit of walking if you’re up for it. The castle up close is a sight, but I wanted to scope out different vantage points to really see the extent of this marvel juxtaposed against the Alpine foothills. To get the best view hike to Marienbruke Bridge then continue to the highest vantage point. I arrived midday when attendance was at it’s highest, so I opted not to go in for a formal tour, which is the only way to get inside (book ahead if you do). Tours at Neuschwanstein only last about 35 minutes and no photography is permitted inside. There are different packages that allow you to see two different castles with transportation included for around 30 Euro, which I’d say is a pretty fair price.
You will probably have snapped a dozen photos by now, but here is where you’ll finally get it all into frame and appreciate how precariously it sits atop jutting rocks and trees. This castle served as the inspiration for Disneyland’s Sleeping Beauty Castle and has been featured in numerous musicals and films. With a nice burn in our legs and satisfied with the snapshots and exploration, I continued the descent down the wet road towards the parking lot. I’d say pack at least a pair of waterproof or resistant shoes, just in case. There were nearby lakes we wandered around to get unique perspectives as I craned my neck for one more peek up. And I'm off again to the German municipality of Ettal!
TIP: Please be aware that you need a “vignette” toll sticker to drive on Austria’s motorways and expressways. It is available at the border, at gas stations, or online. I stopped at a gas station before entering Austria to get this 10 Euro toll sticker which allowed us to travel to and from Austria with ease.
Stop 3: Alpine Lake Plansee
Drive time: 30 minutes
Plansee is a lake in the Tyrol, Austria. This is a great place to stop for a picnic lunch or dinner before heading to your final destination for the night.
Stop 4: Ettal, Germany
Drive time: 30 minutes
View from Gasthof Blaue Gams Hotel
This small town of less than 800 people turned out to have so much to offer. It was perfectly timed to give us a respite from driving and settle into a tranquil little ski town for a few days. The hotel felt like a comfy lodge with a restaurant on site, continental breakfast and awe-inspiring views in every direction. Have a meal or just a drink outside and take in the sweeping views. Also of interest was a very elaborate, top notch sauna (two actually), steam room and quiet cool down area with neatly arranged chairs for flopping down like a wet noodle after your soak. Spa culture being near and dear to German hearts and my what a place to enjoy one.
Main Street in Ettal, Germany
You’ll see the Benedictine monastery and simply must walk these grounds and peek inside. This community of more than 50 monks is a pretty self-sufficient group who raise livestock, honey bees, brew beer and live a life of simple solitude. Basically all of the tenets of being a mountain man or a German Ron Swanson (Parks and Rec). They are even buried there, really feels like something from another era. As night fell, I made my way back towards the hotel and passed by a group of teenagers in a skate park. We were highly amused to witness the youth skating and kicking soccer balls around as tuba heavy, oom-pah music played on a radio. I’m still waiting for the European invasion of oom-pah music to hit our shores like Beatlemania, I know it’s around the corner. Good night lovely Ettal.
Day 3: Partnach Gorge hike, Karwendelbahn Cable Car, Linderhof Castle and Spa Day
Stop 1: Partnach Gorge
Drive time: 30 minutes
Head out for an early morning hike at Partnach Gorge, which is a popular place to see a flowing mountain stream and some waterfalls.
I browsed a nearby board trail map (mostly in German) before setting off towards the entrance/trailhead. Unfortunately, there was a bit of a construction project obscuring my ability to get too near the river, but I was able to take a detour and catch some glimpses. The serene hiking would make up for the unplanned construction.
There were a number of quiet lodges and rural dwellings as this hike took me through open pastures and dense forests. This was freedom and made for unspoiled panoramic pictures. It’s also a great place to capture some signs you’ll not understand a lick of unless you’re fluent in German. We weren’t hip to it then, but using the AllTrails app would be very apropos in Partnach Gorge.
While on the road I enjoyed stopping at gas stations and truck stops. What? Perhaps I’m too easily amused. German truck stops served fresh meals to order and the quality was outstanding. Order yourself a Milchkaffee– 1/2 strong brewed coffee (rather than espresso), 1/2 hot milk (steamed or scaled) & a layer of milk foam. It’s fun to say and delicious. Also, for a Euro you can use bathrooms that are pristine. Our first go round paying to use restrooms, but if that prevents you from hazarding a truck stop looking like something off I-75 in Florida….it’s probably worth it 🙂 I enjoyed seeing old signs and vestiges at different stops which still bore pictures and information about the 1972 Olympics in Munich.
Stop 2: Karwendelbahn Cable Car
Drive time: 30 minutes
Karwendelbahn is a near vertical cable car ride leads visitors to the top of one of the highest mountains in the area.This was on the itinerary, but unfortunately because of the weather I decided to skip this attraction.
Drive time: 45 minutes
Linderhof Palace is the smallest of the three palaces commissioned by King Ludwig III. This castle is only a short 10 minute drive from the hotel in Ettal, so it’s worth checking out. The inspiration for this palace was Versailles. If you have been to Versailles in France you may notice similarities as you stroll through the palace and grounds.
Stop 4: Back to Ettal
Drive time: (From Linderhof Castle) 10 minutes
By this time it was early afternoon and I decided after a day of rain and some decent hiking, I'd delve into the world of German spa culture. With my cursory amount of research in hand, I learned the do’s and don’ts of the process. The Germans are not shy about nudity and wearing bathing suits is seen as a bit unclean in the hallowed spa. Well….what the hell, let’s hit the spa. Fortunately, it was relatively deserted down on the first floor spa, which opened out to the scenic hillside. First, you shower off and grab as many towels as you like and situate yourself into one of the saunas-sans swimsuit of course. The saunas here were coed, and people are respectful of distance and privacy. I started with the dry sauna and meandered to the wet steam room. Ah, this was really nice! It tests your comfort zone, but when in Bavaria, right?
After regaining consciousness and feeling very limber, I went back to town for dinner. I tried some schnitzel and thoroughly enjoyed it. I was really feeling pampered now! Itook another stroll around the monastery grounds to say hi to some sheep and get a different vantage point of the town. It goes without saying that the beer here was stellar and the whole experience was an invigorating getaway. Almost a vacation within a vacation. You can believe I slept like babies that night.
Day 4: Walchensee Lake, Ice Caves in Werfen and Berchtesgaden
After a refreshing two days in Ettal, I was headed east to Berchtesgaden with its breathtaking views of the Berchtesgaden Alps and nearby Berchtesgaden National Park, but on the way we made a few stops. The drive was enjoyable, just the right amount of time to relax and hit some open space.
Stop 1: Walchensee Lake, Germany
Drive time: 40 minutes
On the way to Berchtesgaden, stop at stretch your legs at one of Germanys largest and deepest Alpine lakes!
Stop 2: Ice Caves in Werfen, Austria
Drive time: 2 hours and 30 minutes
Why not stop at the WORLDS LARGEST ICE CAVES just over the border into Austria? This is a spectacular sight. Make sure to dress warm and wear a good pair of shoes. You will be climbing up 134 meters to see the main attraction. Photography is prohibited in the caves, so be sure to click on the link to learn more information.
Stop 3: Berchtesgaden
Drive time: 40 minutes
You are now in the far Southeastern corner of Germany about 20 miles from the Austrian border; poised perfectly for your last leg trip to Salzburg the following day. I arrived just shy of dinner time and parked to immediately be greeted with sweeping views overlooking a lake and mountain backdrop. It had certainly gotten cooler here and your layers might start to make an appearance.
Tomorrow I would be exploring Berchtesgaden National park while visiting Hitler’s Eagles Nest.
Day 5: Eagle’s Nest and Salzburg, Austria
Stop 1: Kehlsteinhaus–Eagle’s Nest
Drive 10min
I woke up to a dreary day, but very excited to see the nearby Eagle’s Nest (Kehlsteinhaus) sitting high up on a rocky summit-over 6,000 feet in fact. These days Kehlsteinhaus serves as a restaurant, tourist attraction and beer garden, but originally functioned as a vacation getaway of sorts for the Nazi Party of the World War II era, including semi-frequent visits from Adolf Hitler. Hitler was said to dislike the location, however, as the thin mountain air and sheer cliffs were too much for his delicate tastes.
Stop 2: Salzburg, Austria
Drive time: 40 minutes
As I mentioned earlier, we were in the optimal location to spring us to Salzburg and could not have been happier about this. I am now on my way to the historic Austrian city of Salzburg (translation: “Salt Fortress”) with its roughly 150,000 residents and the proud birthplace of Mozart. The landscape became even more stunning and elevation gains were apparent. For two people escaping Florida summer, we felt like we were in a story book.
Iwisely and economically chose to stay just outside the city center in what is considered “new town,” you’ll see the prominent walls separating the two when you get closer. New town was the quaint residential area encircling the “old town” which sits within the city walls.
Day 6: Salzburg
Salzburg certainly lives up to its moniker as a fortress and has a beautifully preserved city center, alpine surroundings and inspiration everywhere. You’ll eventually come upon the towering city walls and pass through a winding tunnel. I loved this walk, it built with anticipation and transported us to a whole new world on the other side. First thing you’ll probably do is spin back around to see the walls from the other side and gaze at a nearby ornate fountain. The city is very condensed within the walls and there is much to see and do.
I did purchase a Salzburg card for about 25 Euros. It would turn out to be worth it, allowing for entrance to several historical sites, museums, public transportation, a gondola ride and even a river cruise if you are so inclined.
Making my first pass through town we scoped out the shopping and people watched. I made my way to the banks of the Salzach River and used this as the outermost boundary for most of our exploration. I say this often, but you won’t be disappointed with your strolling.
While you’re still out and your blood is pumping, I highly recommend walking the grounds of the Mirabell Palace with it’s colorful, eye-popping gardens and fountains. I enjoy the art of a good lawn, so this place was pleasing on multiple levels. If you’re a Sound of Music Fan (uh who isn’t), you’ll see that this was the location was the fountain they danced around during the "I have confidence in me" number.
I browsed both the Museum of Modern Art, popped into the Salzburg Cathedral and combed the Salzburg Museum. The squares around town are equally as beautiful and warrant a spin through. The Kapitelplatz and Residenzplatz were two of our favorite and boast lively activity, Baroque fountains and impressive architecture and design.
My big attraction for the day was ascending to the high point of the city at the Fortress Hohensalzburg. This is an absolute must see. The courtyards at the top offer food and plenty of restrooms, but the real treat is climbing to the top and getting panoramic views of the mountains and countryside. You’ll want to savor this view. It gives you a chance to appreciate how far around the walls go that encapsulate this settlement and allows you to appreciate the absolute backbreaking feat in front of you.
As I left I worked our way down a hill straddling the side of a hill. I knew my Salzburg pass entitled me to a discount at a nearby beer garden, so that was a no brainer on where to grab a bite to eat. It turned out to be a perfect spot to watch a quarterfinal World Cup match between England and Sweden (I know, your two favorite teams) and listen to the various groans and celebrations around me. Germany was eliminated by now and people just wanted entertainment, so there were split allegiances everywhere.
The last thing on the agenda…more Sound of Music sightseeing of course! I walked by Nonnberg Abbey and peered through the gates where another iconic scene was filmed. Nearby, a Sound of Music bike tour was embarking, which in truth would probably be a lot of fun whether you’ve seen the movie or not…come on, you know you want to. From this perch I snapped some wonderful photos overlooking building spires and distant churches.
The Sound of Music Film Locations in Salzburg:
Nonnberg Abbey – Nonnberg Abbey is the oldest convent in the German speaking part of Europe. Maria was a novice there. The baron and Maria were married here in 1927. The scenes for the movie made here include the opening with the nuns going to Mass and Maria coming too late.
Mirabell Gardens – The Mirabell Gardens were laid out in the 18th century. Maria and the children were seen dancing around the statue of Pegasus, the winged horse, and throughout the gardens singing ‘Do-Re-Mi.
Leopoldskron Castle – The front side of the castle was used as the Trapp family home, the children were boating on the Leopoldskron Lake and fell into the water. The Venetian room was copied from the castle and used as the ballroom.
Hellbrunn Castle – This hunting castle was built in the early 17th century by Prince-Archbishop Markus Sittikus. In the gardens the glass pavillion was reconstructed for the pleasure of those fans still returning after 30 years.
St Gilgen and Lake Wolfgang – Scenery shown at the beginning of the movie was filmed at Lake Fuschl on the way to St Gilgen. Like the Mozart family, visitors from all over the world appreciate the beautiful village in the Salzkammergut.
Wedding Church Mondsee – Mondsee Cathedral was used as the location for Maria and the Baron’s wedding in the film.
Day 7: Untersberg Cable Car, Munich
I woke early to make the roughly two hour drive back to Munich.
Stop 1: Untersberg Cable Car
Drive time: 30 minutes
I had an evening flight and was determined to eke out just a bit more in Alpine country, so I used my convenient Salzburg pass for one last included excursion. I made the short country drive to the Untersberg Cable Car (Untersbergbahn), which was situated nicely along the route back to Munich. Dress plenty warm for this mountain ascent as it is cold up top, climbing over 1300 meters in a cozy cable car. This is a truly rugged and sweeping viewpoint/trailhead for hikers and sightseers alike. You’ll see the winding climb to the very top as you move up a bit and if you’re relatively sane, will probably opt to snap photos instead.
Stop 2: Munich
Drive time: 2 hours
After arriving back in Munich, I got on the train headed to Munich International Airport (Flughafen Munchen). Be mindful of trains splitting as they work their way out of the city and diverge to their destinations. A teenager was kind enough to warn us of the split, giving us ample time to make our way to the back of the train.
I only got a taste of the region of Bavaria and would love to go back to explore more of this unique economic and cultural powerhouse of Western Europe.
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